Imagine being paid a modest fee to be the lead makeup artist on a “small test shoot” for a famous cosmetic brand, only to see the images months later on billboards and in full-page ads in every major magazine. This happened to me, and I wish I could say it was an isolated incident. Sadly, it was just one of many times I experienced lack of financial transparency and accountability while working in the fashion industry – an industry that I love, but that desperately needs reform. 

My name is Dawn Jacobson, and I’m a makeup artist and hair stylist with over 30 years of experience. I’ve worked for numerous clients including Esteé Lauder, Condé Nast, and Bloomingdales, and I’ve been represented by five management agencies over the course of my career. Management agencies book jobs for creative artists, but we rarely see the agreements they enter into on our behalf, which include the scope of work and rate of pay. Because of this, we can be deceived into working lucrative jobs for little to no compensation. 

When I saw my work being used in a global advertising campaign, I was shocked. Had I known the terms of the job, I never would have agreed to work for the paltry amount I was paid. I went back to my agent who had booked the job to request my day rate and compensation for the usage of the images. Finally, after six months, I received just my day rate – nothing else. 

Indeed, during my time working through management agencies, I have often waited upwards of six months to be paid for my jobs, many of which exceeded an eight-hour work day with no overtime pay. That’s because there are no standards for timely payment through management agencies. And even though they always took a 20% commission, I was also charged significant fees for appearing on their social media and being listed on their website. Keep in mind, these costs are simply considered a part of doing business in any other industry. 

In contrast, for a period of my career, I worked as a freelancer without the representation of a management agency. When I began booking jobs myself, I received direct payments from the brands quickly, often in less than 30 days. Management agencies often blame the brands for being slow to pay, but, in my experience, the very people who were supposed to be representing our interests were often the ones who were holding onto our money.

As creatives and models, we’re told not to “rock the boat.” Candidly, it feels nerve-racking for me and many of my peers to speak out. But at this point in my career, I feel compelled to stand up for what’s right and use my voice to protect the next generation of fashion workers. 

That’s why I joined the Model Alliance’s Worker Council to advocate for the Fashion Workers Act, a New York State bill that would correct the exploitative practices that I and so many others have experienced by creating basic rights and protections. We’re demanding payment – including overtime – within 45 days of completing a job, 20% caps on commissions with no added fees, and transparency into contracts and agreements entered into on our behalf.  

With your help, we can make the Fashion Workers Act a reality. Please join me by making a donation today towards our $20K summer fundraising goal to invest in a safer, more equitable fashion industry.